Sartorial Grow

Tobacco linen suit. We’re close to the winter here, in the...

Sun, 21 Apr 2013 10:51:00 -0300

Tobacco linen suit.

We’re close to the winter here, in the southern hemisphere, but, being a clothing aficionado, I’m already thinking about my future summer commissions, as my winter commissions were thought out months ago.

Unfortunately, there’s not many tasteful options for summer suitings for an orthodox man as most patterns were developed for winter/autumn cloth, which eliminates them for summer, so we’re left with solid colors and textures to achieve diversification for our summer wardrobes.

In spite of that, it’s summer, so we can wear more unique colors! Tobacco, for example, is one of those uncommon colors, but, while being so, it’s not as flashy as light blue or white and inspires a lounging feel better than navy, in my opinion.

Also, linen, despite the complains for the wrinkles, is the perfect cloth for summer lounging, considering how breezy it’s. It has some advantages, as Will explains:

two of the better things about linen are that it is soft, much more comfortably soft than the high twist cloths or mohairs of my acquaintance, and handles perspiration well. Where cotton soaks through and can make the wearer look like he has recently emerged from a bathing pool, linen wicks moisture away quickly enough so that the wearer is more likely to look like he is accustomed to the tropics. This is a good thing.

Thus, the genesis of my, soon to be, summer suit!

Now, I’m trying to figure out which source will provide the best cloth for my (budget) suit.

A justifiable compromise. The safest way to invest your money is...

Mon, 01 Apr 2013 23:43:00 -0300

A justifiable compromise.

The safest way to invest your money is to put it where the risk is the lowest, in classic menswear the safest investment is the navy suit, as I can’t think of a classic garment that is more versatile than the navy suit. However, it’s also the most profitable one!

Nowadays, the less versatile classic garments are the ones reserved to formalwear and that’s is where a navy suit shines alone as it can be used as a tasteful substitute when you’re in a pinch. For example, having to go from work to a formal dinner, with no time to change clothes or with no dinner suit, a man donning a navy suit could be appropriately dressed by just changing his long necktie to a bow tie.

However, does every navy suit achieves the same level of success on that use? No, there are some more suitable for nightwear.

A dark navy cloth with some sheen will relate better with formalwear and a double breasted (DB) jacket configuration will increase your rate of success, as a DB jacket is more formal than the single breasted (SB) form. Also, a DB jacket will, usually, show less shirt than a SB jacket sans waistcoat, which is more appropriate for wearing a bow tie.

Donning a navy suit for black tie is a compromise, but it’s a tasteful one.

¡Chalecos y pantalones! You probably know this already, but, a...

Tue, 26 Mar 2013 18:43:00 -0300

¡Chalecos y pantalones!

You probably know this already, but, a waistcoat must cover your trousers’s waistband. However, more importantly, how does this rule affect the relation between a waistcoat and a pair of trousers?

First things first, we should understand the point in the rule, because only then we’ll be truly thinking (and that’s good, right?) about clothing. Among the possibilities, these are the ones that I consider the most important ones: bring no attention to the midsection with the hidden purpose of lengthening the wearer.

Therefore, a higher waisted pair of trouser are the logical choice, because it will hide the waistband where the waistcoat is buttoned (btw, the last button should be left undone in order to maintain the flattering shape of a waistcoat and as a nod to menswear tradition) and it will visually lengthen your legs. Also, since you are donning a waistcoat, you can wear a brace (which is much more comfortable and practical than a belt) without the fear of undesirable attention.

In spite of the first option, you can choose the second option: to don a waistcoat that is longer enough to cover your trouser’s waistband. However, it will visually lengthen your torso which is not flattering for the majority of men.

Check out the terrific photograph of Simone Righi above to see an illustration of what I wrote.

A streamlined shoe wardrobe. A small caveat before we proceed...

Fri, 22 Mar 2013 12:59:00 -0300

A streamlined shoe wardrobe.

A small caveat before we proceed to my list, every single pair must be seen as the choice of an undergraduate which, to be honest, is not expected to wear nothing more than trainers.

Honestly, you need to justify your choices, my list is illustrative. The main point is the intellectual exercise, finding a reason behind your choices. If you want to see more lists, and the reasoning behind them, go to this thread at the Style Forum (PS: the photographs are just illustrative).

1) A pair of dark brown calf full brogue oxfords.

This pair is my go to when there’s something formal to be expected. The last of my own pair is not very sleek, so I feel OK to don it with odd jackets, but I’d not be willing to don it without an odd jacket.

2) A pair of burgundy shell cordovan longwings bluchers.

When there’s some shit to be kicked. From jeans to a casual suit, I’m counting on this pair. However, this is a seasonal card, I’d not don it on the summer/spring (the wintery/autumnal days on those seasons being the exception).

3) A pair of black suede single monk straps.

When I need a wild card that can make the transition to nightwear. It’s black, so it’s more formal, but it’s suede, so it’s not all that formal, and it’s a single monk, so it’s not casual and it’s not formal.

4) A pair of mink unlined suede penny loafers.

This pair goes with everything I have, as long as it’s correctly accessorized. When you’re going to buy yours, pay notice to the last, if it’s too sleek it won’t work in more casual outfits, but the reverse, in my experience, is less of a problem.

5) A pair of tobacco unlined suede penny loafers.

I need every bit of fresh air at the Brazil summer. Choose your last wisely, as advised above. Also, this is a seasonal pair, S/S only.

6) A pair of mink suede chukka boots.

It’ll look like a derby when you’re standing, but, when you seat down, it’ll reveal its awesomeness. Also, if you make sure that the last is not too sleek and not too rugged, it’s completely fine in casual settings as in more sleek ones.

The mid-Atlantic break. It took me a while, but I’ve finally...

Tue, 19 Mar 2013 22:45:00 -0300

The mid-Atlantic break.

It took me a while, but I’ve finally settled with a trouser length. One that Barbera calls “the mid-Atlantic break”.

This is not obvious when you start to think about it. First, there’s the trousers silhouette, as skinny trousers would be disastrous with full break or as fuller trousers just seem more natural with a generous break. Second, we should account for the fabric differences, lighter (weight) fabrics make up a better trouser with a full break because they tend to rise up when we walk (which is a good amount of the time ) and rumpleable fabrics (cotton, linen, flannel when it bags) are also well served with more length because a otherwise no-break length will get ruined throughout the day.

Barbera’s advice seems to be reasonable to me because it covers almost every variables and also shows a bit more of those expensive shoes that we wear.

Beware of the lack of context. The lack of context is the major...

Sun, 10 Mar 2013 10:51:49 -0300

Beware of the lack of context.

The lack of context is the major danger on developing your style based on Tumblr #menswear blogs.

The clothing are (often) beautiful, the handwork is admirable, but it’s just clothing and on itself it lacks matter. Where we don it, the moments we live on them, the clothing plus the venue: that’s what matters.

Or as Socrates has better put:

- […] who recognises the existence of absolute beauty and is able to distinguish the idea from the objects which participate in the idea, neither putting the objects in the place of the idea nor the idea in the place of the objects—is he a dreamer, or is he awake?
- He is wide awake, Adeimantus replied.

Formal black tie. Above is Montesquieu’s MTM Attolini...

Sun, 24 Feb 2013 20:25:00 -0400

Formal black tie.

Above is Montesquieu’s MTM Attolini tuxedo from a Milan retailer, the formal counterpart of the black tie attire.

The jacket is single breasted with one button, no flaps, and, usually, no vents. It’s donned with a waistcoat or with a cummerbund. The waistcoat, as you see, is very different from the usual lounge suit waistcoats, it has a very low buttoning point to show more shirt and it is usually made matching the lapels material (satin or grosgrain).

I’ll have to decide between those two options when the time to order my first bespoke dinner suit comes. We’ll see what happens.

Casual black tie. It may seem like an oxymoron, but as soon as...

Fri, 22 Feb 2013 21:00:00 -0400

Casual black tie.

It may seem like an oxymoron, but as soon as you’ve taken your time to study about the customs on menswear you’ll develop a better understanding about clothing formality, with that knowledge, being able to be better dressed for the occasions.

Above is Maofoofan’s London House bespoke double breasted dinner suit, with a 4x1 (4 buttons to show, 1 to button) button configuration, made of a midnight blue mohair with matching grosgrain facings. An excellent choice for a dinner suit.

Turtleneck sweaters. Recently I’ve been giving some...

Fri, 15 Feb 2013 12:15:00 -0400

Turtleneck sweaters.

Recently I’ve been giving some thought on how to wear a jacket without a tie, or on different ways to cover ones neck without being too formal for an undergraduate.

The obvious choices are a scarf or a neckerchief. I’m fond of the first, but the second is too contrived and pimptastic for me. However, there’s a third choice: the turtleneck sweater, as seen in the great outfit above by, the Style Forum member, RJE (OK, the shoes are a bit contrived, but in a restrained way).

"Unlike today, when fashion is something formulated by a designer or a store, back in the thirties,..."

Tue, 05 Feb 2013 15:01:00 -0400

“Unlike today, when fashion is something formulated by a designer or a store, back in the thirties, the style seeker learned that genuine stylishness was an extension of himself, and not the other way around.”

- (FLUSSER, Alan)

The (in)famous grey odd jacket. Many words were written about...

Tue, 05 Feb 2013 10:27:52 -0400

The (in)famous grey odd jacket.

Many words were written about gray odd jackets and their lack of versatility and, while I agree with them, there is Luciano Barbera donning it in the best effort that I have ever seen.

The jacket’s details, woolen cloth with a pattern and patch pockets, helps to avoid the “orphaned suit jacket” issue, despite it probably being an orphan. However, in my opinion, it is the lounging demeanor that sets this effort apart, as many elements of “sprezzatura” can be found.

I am not advocating in favor of gray odd jackets, but this is how I would don them.

My copy of the, arguably, ultimate fashion guide, by Alan...

Wed, 30 Jan 2013 14:53:00 -0400

My copy of the, arguably, ultimate fashion guide, by Alan Flusser, just arrived at my door. I will post some quotes, through the reading, and a review, after finishing it.

A (great) greatcoat. Mafoofan’s London House greatcoat in a...

Tue, 22 Jan 2013 23:09:01 -0400

A (great) greatcoat.

Mafoofan’s London House greatcoat in a vintage tweed with cashmere lining. Below is Foo’s summary about his instructions to Mariano, more here and here.

The overcoat I’ve had in mind is somewhat of a chimera: a military-style greatcoat with a storm collar, downward-pointing lapels, framed patch pockets, martingale half-belt, and a front that can be buttoned all the way up to the collar. The sleeves will have substantial cuffs, about 10 centimeters wide. Per usual Rubinacci practice, the sleeves will be set-in like shirt sleeves and the long center vent will be pleated over a buttoning closure.

An amazing contribution from the Style Forum member...

Sat, 19 Jan 2013 14:35:00 -0400

An amazing contribution from the Style Forum member Bourbonbasted:

“I’ve said this before, but I’ll go on record again. Sport Coats, or blazers, can work with jeans. However, the inherently casual nature of denim demands an equally relaxed SC. This means natural shoulders, patch pockets, a more casual drape, a more rumpled material, etc.

You also need jeans that fit properly. Skin tight and a SC will never work, just like dad jeans make for a no-go. The rest of the fit needs to be casual, too: loafers or chukkas, a rumpled shirt (or OCBD) and a playful tie (if you must, though I wouldn’t).

90% of the jacket/jeans combos I see are failures because a dude tries to pair a worsted jacket (or worse, a separate) with structured shoulders and flap pockets with a pair of dark denim that is a size too small. This will always be fail. Always.

Just as we see unbelievable fails in CM casual (a thread at the Style Forum), jeans with a SC is not simply tossing jeans on after you get home from the office. It’s a completely separate look that demands a totally different thought process.

The photo (above) supports my point”.

Turtleneck sweaters at Pitti Uomo 83. The only trend that was...

Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:54:00 -0400

beijing1980

Simon Crompton

Turtleneck sweaters at Pitti Uomo 83.

The only trend that was worth of a post, in my opinion.

For those that are lucky enough: velvet smoking jacket.

Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:30:00 -0400

For those that are lucky enough: velvet smoking jacket.

#menswear headphones. Albert Hal’s headphones in Harris...

Thu, 10 Jan 2013 17:26:23 -0400

#menswear headphones.

Albert Hal’s headphones in Harris Tweed from UrbanEars.

A bespoke experience. Below is Maomao’s summary about his...

Thu, 10 Jan 2013 15:53:26 -0400

A bespoke experience.

Below is Maomao’s summary about his requests when he had his first Liverano & Liverano jacket made.

We spent quite a bit of time discussing how to make the jacket for me. On areas where we agree for example, both Antonio and I wanted to cut the lapels wider, but for different reasons. He thinks the wide lapel helps to balance the wider chest, while for me, I wanted wide lapels to balance my wider face. We both wanted to have front and back drape for movement. We also had ideas the other did not think of, for example I made very specific requests to have no padding for the shoulders at all, and Antonio was very specific on where the button point should be, despite my initial doubt. I think the input from both the customer and the tailor was able to make this a very personal commission. I still look like me in this jacket, and there is no mistake, from the details and execution, that this is a Liverano jacket as well.

"On a serious note, I do think a well-edited wardrobe is a powerful asset in dressing and an..."

Mon, 07 Jan 2013 00:39:00 -0400

“

On a serious note, I do think a well-edited wardrobe is a powerful asset in dressing and an expression of good taste. One must commit to what one likes, make real choices between one thing and another, rely on substantive, long-living style over day-to-day surprise and sparkle.

The best restaurants don’t have expansive menus. They do a relatively narrow range of things very well and have the confidence to insist patrons eat what they serve the way they want to serve it.

My favorite dressers also walk a narrow path. There is a reason certain icons are icons—they dress a particular, recognizable way.

The test of good taste should not be about how much you can devour, consume, and put on display, but whether you can consistently separate the few best things from the many mediocre and bad.

”

- Mafoofan.

New Year’s sartorial resolutions. Since this is a...

Tue, 01 Jan 2013 22:04:18 -0400

New Year’s sartorial resolutions.

Since this is a sartorial related blog, I’m going to share with you my own sartorial resolutions for 2013:

- first, I’ll be committed to my priorities (a seasonal wardrobe of jackets). No more unthought buys;

- second, but not less important, I’ll be more committed with quality products. No more crap in my wardrobe;

- third, I’ll donate everything that’s not getting use.

The important is that none of that is of good use if you didn’t list your sartorial necessities. I’ve a well curated list of future commissions and, if everything goes well, I’ll be finished with the basics by the end of 2013 and hence being able to commission my first formal set (bespoke dinner suit, bespoke formal shirt, formal shoes, black bow tie and dress set) on 2014, a sartorial fetish of mine.